Replacing a concealed cabinet hinge takes more than one width measurement. Before you can match a replacement, you need to know your cabinet construction, the door overlay, the hinge cup dimensions, and the mounting plate details. Here's each measurement in order, and how to turn the numbers into a compatible replacement, without wandering into full door sizing or hinge installation.
The goal is a hinge that fits your door, your cabinet, and your existing boring. That means recording six things: the door overlay, the hinge cup diameter and depth, the distance from the door edge to the cup boring, the screw or dowel pattern, the mounting plate height and hole spacing, and where the hinges sit on the door.
Start by identifying your cabinet construction. Face-frame cabinets have a solid wood frame around the opening, and the hinge or plate mounts to that frame. Frameless cabinets have no frame, so the plate mounts directly to the inside of the cabinet side panel. The two constructions use different hinges and different plates, and everything downstream depends on which one you have.
You'll be working with concealed hinges in most modern cabinetry: the cup sits in a round boring on the back of the door, and the arm clips or screws to a plate inside the cabinet. If you're still sorting out what style of hinge you're looking at, settle that first, then come back with the replacement task in hand.
Grab these before you pull a single door:
Record every value before you shop. Hinge specs and plate specs get mixed together fast when you're working from memory, and a wrong plate ruins a correct hinge.
A simple record looks like this:
|
Measurement |
Where to measure |
Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
|
Cabinet construction |
Face frame present or absent |
Determines hinge family and plate type |
|
Door overlay |
Closed door over the opening or frame |
Drives hinge overlay rating |
|
Cup diameter |
Across the round boring in the door |
Must match the replacement cup |
|
Cup depth |
Bottom of the boring to the door face |
New cup has to seat fully |
|
Boring distance |
Door edge to the near edge of the cup hole |
Sets the door-to-cabinet geometry |
|
Screw or dowel pattern |
Holes around the cup |
Attachment must line up |
|
Plate height and spacing |
Mounting plate inside the cabinet |
Plate and hinge pair as a system |
Work through the door in this order:
Overlay is the distance the closed door covers the cabinet opening or face frame. It's the single number that most often separates a hinge that works from one that won't close right.
When the overlay is unknown, use the masking-tape method: close the door, run masking tape on the face frame along the door's edge, open the door, and measure from the inside edge of the tape to the edge of the opening. That measurement is your actual overlay.
Keep this measurement separate from door sizing. Measuring overlay tells you which hinge rating you need. Calculating a new door size from an overlay is a different task with its own math, and it's covered in Eagle's door measuring instructions rather than here.
Your project's actual overlay governs both the door size and the hinge you can use, so measure it rather than assuming the typical distance behind a label like "full overlay" or "partial overlay."
With the door off, measure the existing cup boring: the diameter across the round hole and the depth from the bottom of the hole to the back face of the door. Then measure from the door edge to the near edge of the cup hole. That edge distance, along with the screw or dowel holes around the cup, defines the boring pattern your replacement has to match.
As an Eagle-specific reference point: Eagle's catalog hinges use a 35 mm cup, and Eagle's standard boring depth is 13 mm. Those are Eagle specifications for doors ordered with Eagle boring, so treat them as one manufacturer's numbers rather than an industry rule. The full set of Eagle boring codes and hole-count bands lives on the hinge boring options page if you're prepping a door order.
Now turn to the cabinet side. Record the mounting plate height (often stamped as 0 mm, 3 mm, or similar) and the spacing of its screw holes. Plates look interchangeable and often aren't. A hinge and plate work as a matched pair, so a replacement hinge frequently means a replacement plate from the same system.
Turn your record into a compatibility checklist and compare it line by line against the replacement's published specs:
Soft-close is a feature built into the hinge. The door closes differently; the measurements are the same. A soft-close replacement uses the same overlay, cup, and plate checks as any other concealed hinge.
Check every value against the manufacturer's model specifications rather than a generic dimensions chart. Two hinges with the same cup size can differ in overlay range, plate system, and adjustment limits. If you'd rather have the matching worked out for you on a new door order, Eagle's cabinet door hinges guide covers how cabinet type and overlay map to a recommended boring and hinge.
Here at Eagle, a detail we often see missed on replacement work is the boring distance - the gap between the door edge and the cup. Cup diameter gets measured because the hole is right there staring at you, but the tab distance is a couple of millimeters that people eyeball or assume, and it's the number our boring codes are actually built around: a 3 mm and a 5 mm tab are different codes on our order form, and that difference shifts the door's whole relationship to the cabinet. If you're ordering new doors bored to accept your existing hinges, measure that edge distance off the actual door - it's also worth knowing we cut a boring specifically for customer-provided hinges, so bring the hinge's real dimensions to the order rather than the nearest familiar number.
For separating an overlay problem from a hardware mismatch, the check is which side of the hinge the trouble lives on. Run the tape method from this article and compare your measured overlay against what the hinge is rated for: if those two numbers disagree, no cup or plate detail will fix it - the hinge is wrong for the door position, full stop, and adjustment screws won't close a gap the hinge wasn't built for. If the overlay and the rating agree and the door still won't hang right, the problem is mechanical - a cup that doesn't seat, a boring pattern that doesn't line up, or a plate from a different system - and each of those shows up physically at the bench. Sort the overlay question first, because it's the one that has to be answered before a door order moves, and it's the only one a new door can't cure.
Most bad hinge matches trace back to one of these:
Run down this list before you order anything:
If any line is blank, that's the measurement to go take now.
Match a replacement hinge by recording what's actually there: the construction, the measured overlay, the cup and boring, and the plate. Keep hinge measurement separate from door-size calculations, and confirm every spec against the replacement model before you commit. When a project calls for new doors along with the hardware, Eagle Woodworking builds custom cabinet doors to your measurements, with hinge boring and matched hinges available on the same order.
Measure the existing setup instead of guessing at a size. Record your cabinet construction, the actual door overlay, the cup diameter and depth, the boring distance from the door edge, and the mounting plate details, then match those values to a replacement hinge's published specifications.
Close the door, run masking tape on the face frame along the door's edge, then open the door and measure from the inside edge of the tape to the edge of the opening. That distance is your actual overlay, and it's the number that determines which hinge overlay rating you need.
No. A 35 mm cup is common in concealed hinges, and cup depths vary by model. Measure the diameter and depth of your existing boring and confirm both against the replacement hinge's specifications rather than assuming a standard.
Only if the hinge manufacturer lists the plate as compatible with the new hinge. Hinges and plates work as matched systems, so record the plate's height and screw-hole spacing and verify the pairing. When in doubt, replace the hinge and plate together.
No. Soft-close is a feature inside the hinge, so the measuring process is identical: construction, overlay, cup, boring, and plate. Take the same measurements you would for any concealed hinge and confirm the soft-close model matches them.