Installing cabinet hinges comes down to five moves: confirm the hinge setup matches the cabinet, mark repeatable locations, drill only as deep as the hinge requires, mount the door, and make small final adjustments. This guide walks through that process for both concealed and surface-mounted hinges, including a reliable method for working without a jig. Follow it and you'll avoid the two most expensive mistakes on a hinge job: misaligned doors and a bit punched through the door face.
Before you touch a drill, confirm four things: the hinge style, the cabinet construction, the door position, and the attachment method.
Concealed hinges mount in a cup bored into the back of the door. Surface-mounted hinges screw to the face or edge with no cup bore, so the door-side work is completely different. Next, check whether the cabinet is face-frame or frameless, and whether the door sits overlay or inset. Those two factors together determine which hinge and mounting plate the job needs. Overlay and inset describe where the door sits, not a hinge category, so a hinge sold for a full-overlay frameless cabinet won't work on an inset face-frame door no matter how carefully you install it.
Attachment method matters too. Screw-on concealed hinges need a cup-only boring, while tool-free INSERTA hinges need cup-and-dowel boring. If you're drilling an unbored door, match the boring to the hinge before you start.
For placement dimensions, plate locations, and fasteners, the hinge manufacturer's template and instructions are the authority. If you're still deciding which hinge fits your cabinet type, sort that out first with a resource like Eagle's guide to cabinet door hinges, then come back to install.
There's no universal pilot bit or screw size for cabinet hinges. Sizes vary by model, so pull them from the instructions packed with your hardware.
Pick one reference edge, usually the hinge-side edge, and measure every mark on every door from it. Consistency across the run matters more than any single measurement, because a door marked from the top edge next to a door marked from the bottom will hang visibly out of line even if both were measured accurately.
Vertical placement follows the hinge manufacturer's rules for your hardware. As a reference point, Eagle's hinge-bored cabinet doors place standard holes 3 inches from the top and bottom edges, with additional holes added as door height increases.
Keep three different numbers straight while you lay out:
Mixing these up is how door faces get drilled through. Once your first door checks out, transfer the same reference points to every matching door, and verify the hinge locations won't collide with shelves, drawer boxes, or cabinet framing before drilling.
One warning worth repeating: if the boring, mounting plate, cabinet construction, and overlay setup don't all agree, stop. A mismatch discovered at step 6 means re-drilling; a mismatch caught at step 1 costs nothing.
A jig earns its keep on repeatability. For one or two doors, careful manual layout works fine. For a kitchen's worth of doors, a jig (or at minimum a shop-made template) is the safer bet, because layout errors compound across a run.
If you're going without one, build a repeatable template from paper, plywood, or hardboard using the dimensions in the hinge instructions. Register it against the same reference edge on every door. Set a positive depth stop on your bit, then run a complete test bore on scrap of the same thickness before touching a finished door. The test piece tells you whether your depth stop, tab distance, and bit are right while the mistake is still free.
Before each door, recheck handedness and cup orientation. Doors that swing opposite directions mirror each other, and boring the cup on the wrong edge is one of the few errors with no fix short of a new door.
Here at Eagle, most hinge problems we help sort out were decided before anyone picked up a drill - they trace back to a hinge that was never right for the overlay. A hinge is built for a specific overlay, with an adjustment range meant for fine-tuning a hung door, not for converting the hinge to a different setup. And overlay distances are common across the industry, not fixed, so "full overlay" on the box isn't a guarantee - the number that matters is your cabinet's actual overlay measured against what the hinge is built for. The plate side follows the same logic: cabinet construction sets the plate, and a hinge that's correct for the door can still hang wrong on the wrong plate.
That matching is exactly what our hinge configurator– built as a stand-alone resource and integrated on the doors order form exists to take off your plate. In Step 4 you select your cabinet type and overlay style - face frame full overlay, frameless inset, and so on - and we recommend the hinge, the correct mounting plate for that construction, and the matching boring, with quantities set by your door sizes. Declare the cabinet accurately and the whole run arrives as one known-good combination, so install day starts at the mounting step instead of at a compatibility puzzle. The one thing the configurator can't do is measure your cabinets - so measure the overlay before you order, not after the doors arrive.
The practical difference on installation day is the cup bore. Concealed hinges require a cup bored to the correct diameter and depth plus a cabinet-side mounting plate matched to the construction and overlay. Surface-mounted hinges skip the bore entirely and fasten to the door face or edge, which makes them faster to install but harder to fine-tune later.
Eagle's catalog hinges are concealed Blum hinges with a standard 35 mm cup, and Eagle's standard boring depth is 13 mm. If you order doors hinge-bored, the door-side drilling is already done to those specs and installation starts at the mounting step.
Adjustment behavior differs too. Concealed hinges typically provide separate height, side, and depth adjustments after the door is hung. Surface-mounted hardware may require physically repositioning the hinge to correct alignment, depending on the model. Either way, the manufacturer's instructions govern exact geometry and fasteners.
Check the reveal first: the gap between the door and the cabinet or neighboring doors should be even top to bottom. Then work through door height, side-to-side position, depth, swing, and how the door closes.
On concealed hinges, adjust one axis at a time and retest after each change. Chasing two adjustments at once usually means fixing the same door twice.
Paired doors should meet evenly at the center without binding on the face frame, cabinet side, a shelf, or each other. If a door sags, check that the fasteners are fully seated and the cabinet-side mounting is solid before reaching for the adjustment cams; a loose plate mimics a hinge problem. Finish with several full open-close cycles and a final pass on every fastener.
Most of these trace back to drilling before the setup is confirmed. A setup check and a test bore take a few minutes, while a cup bored through a finished door face means ordering a replacement door.
Replacement is an identification job before it's an installation job. Measure and identify the old hinge setup before buying hardware or drilling anything.
Remove one hinge and keep it as your physical reference for cup size, plate style, overlay, and screw-hole pattern. Test the new hardware on one door and confirm it hangs, closes, and adjusts correctly before converting the full run. Once compatibility is proven, the placement, mounting, and alignment sequence above applies exactly as it does for a new installation.
The job goes right when the checks come first: verify the hinge and cabinet setup, measure from repeatable references, control your drilling depth, and align the door before final tightening. Once the first door hangs clean, the rest of the run follows the same marks.
If you're ordering doors for the project, Eagle Woodworking builds made-to-order custom cabinet doors with optional hinge boring and matched hinge kits added to the order. Tell us your cabinet type and overlay style, and we'll recommend the right setup so your doors arrive ready to hang.
Yes. Build a template from the hinge manufacturer's dimensions, mark every door from the same reference edge, use a depth stop, and run a test bore on scrap before drilling a finished door. A jig becomes worth it when you're installing across many doors, where small layout errors add up.
Follow the placement rules for your specific hinge. As a common reference, Eagle's hinge-bored doors place standard holes 3 inches from the top and bottom edges, with more holes added as door height increases. Keep placement consistent across every door in the run.
Most concealed hinges, including Eagle's Blum catalog hinges, use a 35 mm Forstner-style bit for the cup bore. Depth matters as much as diameter; Eagle's standard boring depth is 13 mm. Always confirm both against your hinge's instructions before drilling.
Use the screws supplied with the hinge or the sizes specified in its instructions. There's no universal screw size for cabinet hinges, and Eagle hinge kits include their installation screws. Substituting hardware-store screws risks stripped holes or screw heads that interfere with the hinge mechanism.
Check the basics first: fully seated fasteners and a solid cabinet-side mounting plate. If those are sound, use the hinge's height and side adjustments to bring the door back level, working one axis at a time and retesting after each change. On concealed hinges, the adjustment screws handle most sag without removing the door.